Monday, August 1, 2016

Frankenpattern Sundress

On Pattern Review, Catina , The Pattern Hack Fairy",  drafted a skirt pattern for someone who had asked for help in finding a pattern to recreate a Milly skirt with lovely pleating.

 Although I was searching for fabric for a skirt that would match a sweater I love very much, when I saw this fabric at Mood I thought sundress.


The fabric was a bit stiff when purchased, but that totally washed away with one washing.  I thought it might have been a plus for the pleating, but now it is so soft and comfortable.

I was very creative here and I all worked out very well.

I started with my TNT shift dress pattern.  It's from an old Butterick coordinate pattern.  The number is B5147, but it could have been any darted shift dress.  The original fitting was done by Kenneth King at a fit clinic at Sew Right and I've sewn it many times.

I cut across at the waistline, rotated the darts into princess seams and cut across the top.  After the first muslin, I took quite a bit in at the back and the sides.

The skirt was cut from the pattern posted through Pattern Review and it matched up to the bodice very well.

It has lovely unique pleating.  Very flattering as you get a pleated skirt look while it is very flat across your tummy:

Bodice only was lined and bra carriers were added to the straps;

I added pockets, nabbing the pattern piece from a random pattern, because, well pockets!

The lining was hand stitched down at the bottom of the bodice and to the zipper.  I have never been successful at machine stitching the lining to the zipper.

Hem was finished with Hung Sung seam tape and hand stitched.

For no reason at all I had issues in getting the zipper so that the seams matched up.  With a bit of persistence (and basting only a few inches many times) I eventually concurred it.

One last photo:

Sunday, April 17, 2016

I've got a skirt thing going on

So the 3rd skirt post in a row.

Fabric was my last purchase made at Chic Fabrics before it closed.  It's a charmeuse with matte dots and I've used it wrong side up so it is matte with charmeuse dots.  I just love a fun skirt, worn with solid tops and the colors of this print are totally me.

No pattern, no hand sewing.   I took my 1 yard of fabric and cut a waist band off of one selvedge side.    Cut the remaining piece in have crosswise.  Then I cut 2 pieces of Bemberg lining the same size less 1" along the long side.  With both the main fabric and the lining I  sewed the two respecitve  pieces together on the short sides.   Next the body and lining were sewn along the long end, which became the hem line.  Side seam had a zipper inserted and sewn.  Waistband created and attached with a single button for closure and done.

Here's a look at the no hem hem:

Twirling shot:

Guess what?  There's another skirt sewn.  Just need a photo session. Been really bad about that lately.

'Til next time.

Friday, February 26, 2016

A Nice Warm Skirt

Absolutely lovely, very heavy (as could have been a coat) Navy wool from Metro Textiles bought at #wineandcheesewithkashi.

This is my TNT skirt pattern that Claire helped fit for me. I can no longer locate the Sarah Verblen fitting tutorial I started with.  The same info is in an article in the July 2015 issue of Threads.  They must have taken down the tutorial when the article was published.

The closure is an exposed brass zipper in the back:

Those funny squares showing in the photo do not show in real life.  Navy is just as hard to photograph as black.

When I purchased the fabric, I was told me  to be careful with how I stabilized the waistline  to keep it from stretching, since I wasn't going to put in a waistband.

I decided that I would use Petersham ribbon.  I found this tutorial:

I extended the ribbon and used a hook and bar for the closure.

I am so happy with the fit on this one.  If I make this length again I will extend the kick pleat up higher.  I missed on my length measurements and had to shorten the hem.

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Jungle January?

Well it's been awhile since I've posted, but when the daylight hours got shorter my camera decided it couldn't coop.  Getting a good one is on the long list of things to do.

The question mark in the title is there as I'm in almost no way a animal print kind of person.

Well I do make one exception, cows.

But I don't think there are cows in the jungle anyway.

I had an occasion I was making a dress for.  The occasion didn't necessitate something very dressy, but I wanted something new.

The dress was a big failure and ended up, for multiple reasons in the trash.

So as one does, the Tuesday before the event  I ran to Mood and purchased a small cut of a very lovely Alice and Olivia of fabric (not found on the website).  The fabric is a lovely cotton brocade.  Weighty with out being too heavy.

The matching sweater and shoes were already in the wardrobe for a perfect outfit.  I've been know to walk into a fabric store with a shoe to look for coordinating fabric. This time i wore the sweater. 48 hours later I had a perfect skirt.

Then I realized that the pattern is cheetah.

So I'm in for Jungle January.

I'm having a patterned skirt moment. It is a rather simple make, but it is the kind of thing I'm likely to get a lot of use from. There's another one coming up and I expecting that there will be more.  As long as I already have the top to match.  I'm really avoiding orphan makes these days.

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Finally... A Skirt That Fits

Here's the last of the summer sewing.

I'm very  excited about this one.  All my skirts, self made and RTW, usually fold at the top of the waistline in an uncomfortable way.  I've solved that with this one:

Unfortunately I can't seem to locate the fitting instructions I found on the web, but the method is exactly as shown in the  issue of Threads magazine.

My friend Claire helped me fit the skirt muslin.  I used the basic 4 dart skirt from B4461 from which I had already straightened from the hip line down to remove the A shape.  I added to the waist seam allowance another 1" of height.

I sewed the side seams, sewed in horizontal balances line, through in a quick and dirty zipper and marked on the darts the outside , but not sew them up.  When I put it on I pinned a piece of elastic at my waistline.  Claire pinned the darts to fit my body and with a magic marker drew a line below the elastic.

I took the muslin apart, balanced out the darts and copied it on to paper.  I like to use medical (spa) paper.

For this version I did a bit of work to the pattern.  I created a contour waistband by drawing a line 3" below the waistband.  Cut them off, closed the darts and added seam allowances to the bottoms.  I attached the front the back at the side seam to create one piece and added a few inches to the front for the fly.   To the main pieces I added seam allowances at the waist and a fly front which I copied from the Ginger Jean pattern.

Now to find a nice piece of Navy wool.  I'm planning a winter version too.

Saturday, August 8, 2015

Give me Liberty

I have a dear sewing and knitting friend who each year, for my birthday, takes me to Mood and buys me fabric.

This year it was just as the Liberty prints had arrived:

Details are very simple.  It's my 3rd version of this as a shift dress and the 6th time I've used  the pattern.  I intend to go back and document all the variations of this pattern as a post at some point.

Full cotton lining.  Simple pinked seam finishes.

I already have a handmade sweater the coordinates very well:

and was recently gifted this yarn which will make a shawl which will go with the dress very well.
You also get a nice close up of the print.

I've been very lucky this year.

Sunday, July 19, 2015

I bought my fabric at Home Goods....

My habit when getting out of the shower (or very occasional bath) is to wear an absorbent terrycloth robe and only use a towel for my hair.   The one I had had long ago seen its best days as when I took it out to get some basic measurements, I noticed more than one hole and that you could see though the material in many places.

Shopping for a new one I found most robes these days were either made of microfiber fabrics of questionable origin or were way out of the price range I was willing to pay.

Then I started thinking about making one, and then I walked into Home Goods and saw this great set of towels.

Bought the towels on a Monday evening and when I came out of the shower on a Friday morning I had this to use:

I totally winged the construction. I took advantage of all finished edges I could, all other edges were finished with the tank serger. Took a crosswise piece off the end off both bath towels  to give me a  good length.  Then from one bath towel I cut a 3"stipe off lengthwise for the belt and the big piece became the back.  The other bath towel was split in half lengthwise for the two fronts.  From the cutoff ends I cut a piece to lengthen the belt and the two patch pockets.  One hand towel was cut in half for the two sleeves.  I stitched the shoulders seams,  attached the top of the sleeves, stitched the underarm sleeve and body side seams in one pass.  The collar was folded back, stitched and then turned and topstitched.  A stripe of purchased basis tape was stitched at the top neck and then the back of the neck was turned down in a curve.  A loop for hanging on a door hook was attached. and belt loops added/

Flat view:

Closer look:

If anyone is interested in a step by step diagram, let me know and I'll put one together.

Goes real well with the living room chair doesn't it?

A fun project that is getting worn more than anything.